Welcome Back

Arriving back in Ukraine after the states was a bit like coming home, back to the confusion, the constant not knowing what is really going on, or pretending not to when you don't want to talk to anyone. The  weather was hot, the buses smoldering and odorific, but I luckily sat next to a nice little babushka who kept asking me what time it was and if we would arrive to our destination soon, as if I was the local.

My time in the states was not quite how I pictured it to go, I had all these plans to go places, eat a lot of food, and see a lot of people. But, once I got home all I really wanted to do was spend time with my family and a few close friends. I'll be back in a year, so I will do all my Americanizing then. I loved seeing my new-to-the-world nephew, in all his glory with dark Puerto Rican Hair, and a bit of my grandfather brought back in him. The ocean was fantastic, salty and dark with the unknown and my friends made me feel loved. Getting back on the plane to Ukraine was not daunting at all, the post-soviet security was still a bit off putting, but all went well. слава богу. 

I had forgotten to book any type of accommodation for my night in Kiev, forgetting that my train left the next day, but luckily through another PCV, i had an Ukrainian friend in Kiev who at last minute notice, let me stay with her, even picked me up from the train station where the bus from the airport dropped me off. I tried really hard to give her money, but she absolutely refused. I had anticipated this, so I gave her American candy and a shot glass as presents. Ukrainians can't refuse presents. I got to shower and we watched some Sex and the City episodes, totally rocked my world.

The next day my friend drove me the PC office, again, thank god, and I met up with Katherine and her friends visiting from 'Merica. We did some touristing around and I also dealt with a bank card issue, too much hassle that i don't need to bore others with.  We went to St. Sophia's church, walked around the territory, took pictures and climbed a giant tower. Looking out from the top was pretty amazing, and also, it reminded me of how outa shape i'm in, ha. Here's some pics:

German Embassy

out-door cafe in Kiev

fork cat

st. sophia's

Uker Pose

Pretty floors

made of Easter eggs

Katherine

I think this was intended as a type of "prayer tree" but they have plastic bags to save their dreams with

the fan zone in central Kiev

train on the way home to Kherson

Back in my Village now, feeling at home. Spending time with my Ukrainian friends reminds me that I do love it here, in my bubble of Peace Corps life. Let the adventure continue. 

Victory Day (the 9th of May)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victory_Day_(9_May)
The day started off with a parade that I participated in, and had to be “kraseevee” or pretty for.  I met my school and teachers in the bazaar at the end of town where everyone gathers before, yup, parades. The students had blue and yellow balloons (Ukraine’s colors) and the older students were all decked out in military garb. I was also given a sweet orange and black ribbon to wear to commemorate the veterans of the 2^nd world war, also known to the Ukrainians as the Great Patriotic War.

                After the parade there was a presentation at our WWII monuments next to the eternal fire. All the veterans of our town were sat in chairs to get the best view and our mayor gave out lots of certificates and presented flowers and such to the veterans. There were performances by the babas singing and my schools dance troupe “Surprise” preformed.  When the ceremonies were over I gave red carnations to some veterans to thank them for their service (as tradition). One woman cried when I did then, and I stayed and talked to her a bit.

I went home afterwards and made dinner with my landlady and helped in the garden. A very good holiday and no one got hurt. 

11th former all dressed up

showing that pride

2 boys that come to English Club

Kids from other schools

Before the parade, me and some of my 11th formers

guarding the eternal fire

local government

Babushka singing group

The vets

One of my premier students

This girl comes to every English club, pain in the butt, but I love her

My little ones in the dance troupe

My tutor's husband all decked out in his gear

My first Russian баня (banya) trip

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banya_(sauna)

In the morning I had my normal class with the 8^th graders. I gave a power point presentation on America.  Without question my kiddies loved it and had lots of questions. After class I went to my tutor’s house and had my Russian lesson about food and some other grammar non-sense that is useful and I need to learn. My tutor and I walked around the streets practicing Russian, playing with her baby, and then we had some green borsht.  It was soon the afternoon and I went home to gather my things for the banya. I brought two towels, a bathing suit, some flipy flops, and some tea with a cup.

I went to the normal bus stop on the side of the road to jump on a bus. This is usually the way to go because if you go to the bus station you have to pay a small fee to the station.  However, it was one of the days the university kids had off so all the busses coming though town from the beach were completely packed and no one was stopping. A lady looked at me, asked if we should just go to the bus station and do things the “correct” way, and I said yes. Why mention this, well because her bag was insanely heavy and I, being a wonderful Peace Corps Volunteer, offered to help her carry bag, the “baba” way, with each of us holding one the two thin straps. It was only a 15 minute walk, but I still have weird tingling feeling in my fingers that were death gripping the bag.  We ended up taking a taxi shared with 3 others to Kherson and I was dropped off at a store where my Uker friends met me.

 We went to their apartment, played UNO had tea and snacks and around 9:45ish we got in their car and drove to the banya, in the middle of nowhere, and it looked like a dark house.  Once we were buzzed in, it looked a little more official, with pretty lights and things. Inside I was greeted with their friends, two more women and a man, post beer time.  We got in our bathing suits, wrapped towels around us, and then went in the sauna room. It was wooded with a large stack of coal? In a metal cage thingy. We sat for about 5-7ish minutes and then my friend hurried me out and we threw out towels on the ground and ran and jumped into the river/lake thing. So much fun, it was cold, but we were hot, and it was just amazing.  After our swim, we sat down for tea or beer for the others, and talked about the normal things, i.e. comparing Ukraine to America, what I think about politics, and so on. And then the process started all over again. We did this till around midnight and then Refreshed with pink and open pores we drove back to the apartment. Ate some sweets, watched some tv, talked more about life, and then passed out.

Didn’t get a chance to take pictures, cause it was the first time meeting some of the people and some were just naked under their towel/sheet, but I posed for this one post-banya. 

Yay for Women!

Last week I went to Kherson to a Social Center for women and somehow I was designated to take the notes. I typed them up for the rest for my Oblast mates (we affectionately call ourselves the Reject Oblast) I am super excited about working with them and may even commit to going there every Friday. So here's the notes, kinda stream of consciousness, but somewhat organized. I changed names just in case. I am so EXCITED

LBGTQ meeting!

Staff:
Social Worker
 Director
 Accountant
 Office Manager
 Project Manager

(I think they also said they work with a lawyer and a psychologist.)

Open Monday-Friday

Presentation:

-          Opened office in 2007

-          Focus on LBGT, Human Rights, and HIV/AIDS

-          Organize about 50% activities in Kherson

o   LGBT cinema clubs

o   Workshops

o   Counseling

o   Medical trainings

o   Police trainings

§  Works with psychological department

§  Gender equality and diversity, Human Rights

§  The boss was a woman psychologist and was easy to work with but now it’s a man who is hard to speak with, also doesn’t understand the word gender.  

-          Aides NGO’s in HIV/AIDS services

-          2010 end of discrimination

o   LGBT report on women

o   Received considerations

§  HIV research gets finances, but mostly for MSM, drug users, and commercial sex workers

§  The global fund gives money to the alliance and then the alliance divvies out the money to them (only for HIV research)

-          Tasha goes to a lot of international conferences dealing with Human Rights issues

-          1^st organization to hold trainings/seminars for LBGT parents

o   3days of training, usually in 1^st day parents are ashamed but by the end they are proud of their children.

o   Good success with teaching tolerance

o   Helps fix relations and enhances understandings

-          Universities invite them to talk about: sexuality, HIV/AIDS, ect. Trainings

-          Trainings for Empowerment

o   Women without jobs

o   Gender stereotypes

-          Photo exhibition, 3^rd one (faces of…?)

-          Breast cancer support

-          HIV/AIDS clinics, center, test clients, refer to hospitals

-          1^st women’s outreach group for gay and bisexual women   

o   Condoms, lube, counseling, gender specific approach.

o   There is no other support because considered low risk of HIV infection

-          HIV+ art clubs

-          Evenings of Cultural development

o   Poems, readings, ect.

-          Sports in the summer

-          Gender Law 2005

o   Registered 2007

o   Were asked to remove the word gender because they didn’t understand what it meant but they ignored them and did not change the name.

-          Safe Sex Parties! (organize performances at parties)

-          2 living library project

o   Homophobia during WWII

-          Worlds AIDS days

-          1^st Gay Fair for handy crafts

-          LGBT church came to Ukraine and made blessings for 5 couples in the eyes of God.

o   Pastor came twice to Kherson

o   Seminars on religion and homosexuality

-          Other LGBT groups in Kherson:

o   New Wave- mostly men

o   Pirate Studio- Parties!

Possible collaboration ideas:

Ø  Gender violence

Ø  Gender empowerment

Ø  Human rights

Ø  Training of trainers (PEPFAR)

Ø  Breast cancer

o   After surgery there is no information or support for women to cope, need funds for center, only for personal/workers and to print materials and posters in the medical center.

o   Maybe we can help with fundraising/ partnership grant?

Ø  Creative art shop (clothes pin in Ukrainian) crafts for youth

o   Tasha is already meeting with them working on a project to sell kids crafts and then give money back to children

Ø  TOBE/GLOW camps

Ø  Safe Spaces

Ø  Volunteer Workshop

o   For us to share our experiences with volunteering and why we do it, why we feel compelled to help others

o   Charity idea-feeling of responsibility for different issues, how does our country encourage this

o   Talk about EVS- European Volunteer Services opportunities

Ø  PFLAG type program

Ø  **for the trainings we can offer ie PEPFAR and safe spaces, they want to know the timeline and how long the trainings last for.

Discussion:

v  They are 5 yrs old and want to develop their organization further closer to international standards

v  Maybe apply for PCV

v  Like the idea of a membership fee but no one will pay because government is suppose to be providing these services, and the NGOs did get some money from the govt but they took money for selves.

v  They are really interested in the idea of how to change society to be more geared towards volunteerism and civics


After words we took pictures in the street cause we were so happy and excited. Also is was snowing and pretty!:

Peer Advisor Advice

I signed up to be a peer advisor to a new incoming volunteer and we've started to email back and forth. She asks me typical questions about work and clothes and language. In one of her emails she asked me about my work and how I feel that I've been in country for almost a year now. I gave a longer response than she probably wanted, but I just went with it. So, why tell you this? Well, because I though I would share my response with you about my "feelings" and stuff. I'll take the stuff about clothes and things out, but here's the gist of it:

My organization is a school (known as a Gymnasia, I guess cause it's suppose to be better than other schools, but it's not really) I have all grades there and my counterpart (CP)  is one of the vice principles. She is amazing, she organizes so many great things for the kids, even did a HIV/AIDS thing all by herself, it's almost like why am I here when you have her? But basically I have learned that my school wants me to share American Culture and to spread the can-do attitude to my students.  And, unfortunately, my counterpart doesn't really want to work with me, sad face. The woman who requested me is also a vice principle and she is so excited to have me here, but her husband said that I would take up too much of her time and wouldn't let her be my partner. Such is life. I'm still trying to work with her on individual projects though, so there's hope!

 So my work day, I usually have 3-4 lessons/clubs a day all in English and I come an hour early to sit in my CP's office, finish up details on my lesson, and attempt forge a relationship with this woman (she's young, hip and unmarried!) I teach "American" culture lessons with healthy lifestyles tied in so that I'm still fulfilling what Peace Corps wants me to do, but still doing what the school wants at the same time. For example, New Years-making resolutions and goal planning, MLK day-civics, Valentines day-Healthy relationships, you get the picture. I'm also starting a once a week young adults English club in my town's library for peeps out of school and really anyone who wants to come, and soon I've been told that I get to help start a women's soccer team( yay!)

Tips? Well, in training you will be teaching healthy lifestyles to kids (you might not be at a school at site) but stay true to the Peace Corps motto, and be prepared to be really flexible and be open to everything. Take you're time getting to know people, be warm and friendly, basically just be yourself and they will love you.

 I can't even believe that it's almost been a year. Training seemed like it lasted forever and went by so fast. It was hell at some times, but I became really good friends with my Russian teacher  and I visit her all the time. It's not really at all what I expected, but I'm happy to be here, I'm really happy with my site and my work, and can't wait to implement more projects ( there are super PCVs that have done it from day 1, my sites been more of a challenge, but I'm working on it). I have made some really good friendships with teachers, and neighbors, and kids in my village. No regrets. There are of course difficult times with the culture and language and general missing home, but I love being here.

My Ukrainian home!

Slippery Snowman Slides off the Snowy Skis

I think I’m going to try doing short entries and then backdating some later, probably over the winter break, but again, no promises.

My good friend Katherine was in the states visiting family and she needed someone to substitute for her for her English club on Saturdays at 10am for little kiddies. She emailed me a lesson plan and I made all the materials for it.

Getting to Kherson is usually a pretty east thing for me, busses run about every 30min to the city, it’s pretty cheap to go, and it’s only an hour ride. I knew from the last time that I could get off the bus earlier than the bus station and be right at the giant Library, no problem just have to tell the driver to stop. I saw the giant monument on the river that stands in front of the library and ran to the front of the bus and asked for the next stop.  However the next stop was not so close. Again, no problem I will just walk towards the river and then turn left and I should be able to see it. Wrong. There was a large factory of some sort lurking back there in a kinda sketchy area, luckily it was very much daytime, and I got a little lost. I asked a lady with a kid where the library was just to make sure I was in the right direction. Turns out she gave me directions to the kids’ library, so I looked for a baba instead this time to ask. I found one munching on sunflower seeds and politely asked her.  She laughed at me, called me some cute diminutive name and told me how to get there.  At this point it was 5 till 10 and I was definitely going to be late. It wasn’t too far, but still I was late, I asked the library ladies if I could fill out my form after the lesson and they said yes I dropped my coat off downstairs in the coat check area (cause they make you) and then ran up 3 flights of stairs of which I tripped on. Well, almost tripped, I started to fall but I was running so my legs stayed under me and I kinda tripped up the stairs. There were people behind me, but luckily they didn’t laugh. However I found that as I was panting and sweating coming into the English resource center, it was some of the kids behind me. Yay. Also, to top that off, when I entered, one of the ladies came up to me and said “I’m sorry but your zipper…” yup, my zipper was down. Even with all of that, we still had a good English club. I had only 6 kids instead of the normal 12 so everything went pretty quickly, so I had to improvise a lot of games with the material, but I I did get the kids to laugh and speak English, so I’m going call that a win.

I had to get get home pretty soon after that because one of my 8^th graders wanted to go for a walk and show me some of our natural sights in Gola Pristan. She and 2 of her friends met me at my house at 2ish and we walked to the sanitory, taking some sketch slide behind the fences way. She was super excited to show me all the places she had taken pictures at and to also show me where her favorite hideouts are. She loves nature and to take pictures and to just be outdoors. It was wonderful, really.  It was like when I was that age and I would go exploring through the woods. We looked at old soviet statues, found a gold Lenin and lots of Freedom statues. The best part was when we also went off the path to this tiny broken down building, room, not sure what you would call it, and we all climbed on top of it and looked over the salty lake and our village. We talked about travel and seeing the world, and what she wanted to do after school. It was a really good afternoon. I should have made her try to speak English, but meh, I think it was good just to spend time with her.

First Bell

I know this is super late, but hey, it's something:

The First day of school was on September 1^st. It was a big celebration, called the First Bell. I helped one of the Vice Principles, my “real” counterpart on paper, to decorate the week before. We made posters, cut outs of school like paraphernalia, and a huge balloon arch to hang outside. The day of, I came super early to school to help my counterpart (CP for now on) to set up. It was so exciting; especially to see all the kids come dressed in their best school outfits. All the boys were in suits and the girls were in black and white jumpers or dresses. The littlest ones were really adorable. They wear little white pompoms with ribbons in pig tails in their hair.  There was a big celebration outside in the back courtyard of my school, the Gola Pristan Gymnasium, with dancing and various performances.  I also had to give an introduction speech. I said it first in English and then in Russian. All the kids were excited about hearing me, but I could hear the collective “what is she saying?” when I was speaking in English, but then when I said it in Russian, I then heard a collective “ohhhh.” Besides all the singing and dancing for the celebration, there’s also a tradition of giving flowers to your teachers during a set time in the concert. Unexpectedly I did receive some flowers.  One from a girl that was at my summer camp and then after my speech the 11^th graders gave me a bouquet.   The last step is one of the 1^st graders to set on the shoulders of a man and then walk around the yard, ringing a bell to mark the beginning of classes. When the presentation was finished all the kids went to their classes with their class teachers. Class teachers are kind of like homeroom teachers, except they stay with the same class throughout their school career, from 1^st grade to 11^th grade, and then restart with a new 1^st grade. During the “1^st class” I was invited to a small lunch in with the school principle and a few others where there toasts congratulating each other and well wishes made. I also was asked several times if, in America, we celebrate this holiday, and when I sadly told them no they were very curious about what we did to start the school year. They were a bit disappointed with our lack of celebrations, but very enthusiastic to share their day with me. I look forward to next year’s first bell ( kinda because I want to see if I will get more flowers ; ] )

Summer With English!

This summer I also went to a summer camp called, you guessed it, Summer with English. I met other volunteers and hundreds of students from Ukraine, Russia and Poland. We had English clubs everyday and were fed 3 meals, had rooms, and a lot of beach time. At night there was always a concert, or variety show, put on by the kiddies and camp counselors, and a few times we came up with skits or dances on our own, much to the delight of the kids.  

The American Soccer team, i was the goalie of course and got filthy.

me and the asian, all the Ukrainians loved him, he also was the best dancer.

the beach in Zhelzny Port on the Black Sea

Our lovely soviet dormitories

the toilet, bez lid and the shower square

the stage

on International Friends day at camp

preparing for a skit, i was a ukrainian 

one of the little chickas singing 

beware of the jellies, they're everywhere!

MAN THONG

Crimea

Crimea was so beautiful; I had such a great time with my LCF (language teacher from training, Zhenya) and her family. I took a train at 6 in the morning and got there by 11. It sucked. There’s no ac, that’s expected, but I did expect that the window in my pluscart would open, but no. I was sweating my but off and my pluscart neighbor had a 2 yr old crying and jumping around the whole time. When I got in to Simferopol one of the first things I did was buy a fan to try to alleviate the heat some.   Zhenya and her son met me at the train station and then we went to her house where she lives with her parents. Her dad was amazing, he showed me around their garden and told me old war stories of the navy. I got the gist of what he told me but I was lost on most of the details. We had a huge lunch and just sat and talked for hours. Her mom is an English teacher and has a big personality, we got along great. That evening I and we went out to a disc- teka to dance the night away. They had a weird show with 2 large women ballerinas; we even got pulled into to dance with them.

The next morning we attempted to wake up early, failed, but still early enough to make our trip worthwhile. We went to Yalta and saw the Livadia palace, the post WWII house where Stalin, Churchill and Roosevelt met to organize the world. We took an elevator through and down the mountain to beaches on the black sea. It was beautiful, the water next to the mountains and all the trees. After we were done exploring Yalta we went to Sevastopol to stay with her kuma (godparent).  The drive along the coastline was breathtaking, even more so because the sun was setting.

Sunday in Sevastopol was a big Navy holiday. Flags and sailors were everywhere. Zhenya’s son sported a sailor outfit too, complete with hat. They had a “war reenactment” with a parade of their battle ships on the water. The city was packed, it was like being at Disney world. After the boat procession, we went to Hersones (not sure of the sp), incredible Greek ruins on cliffs by the sea.  We hiked around and went swimming, although changing in our bathing suits was and venture too. We took turns going into bushes to change and when I went, a man was coming near, so I haphazardly threw my cloths back on and acted like I was taking pictures. So much fun.  Later that day I met up with Andrea! She lives in Sevastopol and we went for gelato and just walked around and talked until she had to go home.we walked by a boat club called “White People Club,” no joke. Apparently it’s not racist, you’re just supposed to wear only white when you go there, but still…   Zhenya dropped her son off at her Kuma’s and we walked around some more touristy places and shops. We also found earrings that her dad was going to pierce our ears with the next day. We stopped at a comic themed café and had a drink. Zhenya flirted with the waiter and got me a sweet menu as a souvenir =) We went back to Simferopol late that evening on a marshutka and stood for the whole 2 hours, in the stairs. I got my ankle stuck once when the driver opened the door. Funny, but definitely embarrassing.

Monday morning Zhenya’s dad wanted to pierce our ears first thing. He got out what he called Turkish needles, vodka, and stale bread. The vodka was used to sterilize the needles and earrings. The bread was to catch the needle behind our ears. He first rubbed our ears really hard between his fingers and then pushed the needle through the ear. Mine hardly bled, but Zhenya’s bled a lot. Don’t worry, we got it on video. It was then time for her class, she is teaching business English for tourism industry. I went to help out and to talk to the young women in English. It was fun, everyone had lots of questions for me as they always do and I hoped I was somewhat helpful. Zhenya was happy that I got one of the shier girls that never talks to speak up and answer questions.  In the evening we went to close by village and met another LCF there who gave us a tour of his village’s landmarks. We first saw an old Muslim castle/compound and then when up to the mountains where priests built a church and living quarters within the mountain side. So beautiful. Lots of old graves and overgrown buildings.

At breakfast before I left the next day, Zhenya’s dad sat me down. Told me how he was so happy to have met me and that he hopes I’ll always remember him, but in case I forget he made me a ring. He makes his own knives so he used some left over material and forged a ring. It’s very simple, but unique and I wear it all the time now. Whenever I call Zhenya now I always say hi to him. It was a awesome trip, it helps me adjust to living here the more close friends I make.